field notes from 02/08/23

Galápagos Islands

Wide view of the main impoundment at first light
End of the auto-loop.
Sunrise over wetland shallows
The far edge of the marsh.
Grassy headland with fog bank offshore
The main observation area.

Of the spots I’ve covered in this notebook, Galápagos Islands is the one I most often recommend to people who ask where to go with a week and a camera.

The trip in is less complicated than it looks on a map, provided you’re flexible about where you sleep.

The core habitat at Galápagos Islands is volcanic islands, coastal and highland habitats, and the best of it is concentrated in a handful of places that reward slow walking.

My default advice is to go year-round, best april through june and december. Outside that window there are still good days here, but the baseline quality drops.

Bring a scope e one. More of this place is at middle distances than you’d think.

My most memorable morning there was mid-season, soft fog, two dozen birds in a thirty-minute window, and I remember about three of them.

Honest assessment: Galápagos Islands is good but not magic. On a bad day you’ll still have a bad day here.

I’ll keep updating this page as I visit through the year. Take the logistics as rough guidance, not a route sheet.