field notes from 02/08/23

Hornstrandir at the end of the season

· Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, Iceland · Heavy cloud, intermittent squalls, 38°F with wind · Fujifilm X-T5, 150-600mm

Booked the last boat of the season out of Ísafjörður. The rangers had already left. I hiked from Hesteyri toward the old whaling station at Hloduvik, camping once on the beach. The reserve is closed to motor vehicles and in October it is completely quiet. I was most hoping for an Arctic Fox close enough to photograph — they’re habituated to people in summer but wilder by fall — and I got one in blue phase on day two.

Carrying the 150-600 plus a tent plus a week of food was a choice I reconsidered every hour. Would do it again.

Blue-phase arctic fox on tundra
Blue phase. Padded right through camp at dawn. Arctic Fox, blue phase 200mm, 1/2000s, f/8, ISO 400
Blue-phase fox looking at camera
Same fox, different frame. Arctic Fox, blue phase 300mm, 1/1600s, f/6.3, ISO 640
Fulmar passing the cliffs
Fulmars coming back to the cliffs despite the date. Northern Fulmar 400mm, 1/1250s, f/8, ISO 1000
Snow bunting in winter plumage
First winter-plumage snow buntings I've shot. Snow Bunting 150mm, 1/1000s, f/7.1, ISO 400
Ptarmigan mostly in gray
Mostly gray, belly already white. Rock Ptarmigan 350mm, 1/1000s, f/8, ISO 1250
Rocky coast under heavy cloud
The coast south of Hesteyri. Hornstrandir coast 23mm, 1/250s, f/5.6, ISO 100
Common redshank on rocky shore
A few lingering on the shore. Redshank 300mm, 1/1000s, f/8, ISO 1000
Weathered driftwood on dark sand
Driftwood piece I couldn't stop photographing. Driftwood 150mm, 1/500s, f/5.6, ISO 400
Abandoned croft at edge of field
The old croft at Hesteyri. Abandoned croft 23mm, 1/1000s, f/5.6, ISO 400
Oystercatcher on wet rock
One stubborn oystercatcher still at the shore. Oystercatcher 400mm, 1/2000s, f/6.3, ISO 800