field notes from 02/08/23

First mornings in the Mara

This is a dream trip I saved for a long time. I’m traveling with a small group and a guide who has been at this for thirty years. I’m going to post a few of these from the Mara over the next week as I have data.

Day one got us two lion sightings — a young male at the river crossing and a whole pride with cubs in the afternoon. The afternoon pride had maybe fourteen animals visible including three cubs that were almost too cute to photograph seriously. I tried, anyway.

I expected to spend all my time on big mammals but the birds keep grabbing me. Lilac-breasted Rollers are just showing off. Superb Starlings look like they were designed by a tile-maker. A Tawny Eagle held a thornbush perch for most of a morning and let us drive right up.

The light here is not like anywhere I’ve photographed. Dust takes the edge off mid-day and turns the golden hour into something genuinely golden. I’ve been shooting wider than usual to keep landscape in the frame with the animals.

Wildlife doesn’t care about you at all here, which is exactly right. The point is not to approach them, and our guide is strict about it.

Young male lion at river crossing
Young male at the river. Lion 600mm, 1/1250s, f/6.4, ISO 400
Lion pride with cubs in grass
Pride with cubs. Lion 600mm, 1/1000s, f/6.4, ISO 500
Lilac-breasted Roller on bare branch
Lilac-breasted Roller, of course. Lilac-breasted Roller 600mm, 1/1600s, f/6.4, ISO 400
Superb Starling in morning sun
Superb Starling. Name fits. Superb Starling 600mm, 1/1250s, f/6.4, ISO 400
Tawny Eagle on a thornbush
Tawny Eagle, patient. Tawny Eagle 600mm, 1/1000s, f/6.4, ISO 400
Masai Mara plains under morning haze
The plains — dust haze and all. Masai Mara plains 23mm, 1/500s, f/8, ISO 200
Thomson's gazelles in morning light
Tommies — everywhere, all the time. Thomson's Gazelle 600mm, 1/1000s, f/6.4, ISO 400
Cape buffalo herd crossing dry ground
Cape buffalo, in no hurry. Cape Buffalo 600mm, 1/1000s, f/6.4, ISO 400
Cubs playing in short grass
Cubs, being cubs. Lion cubs 600mm, 1/1250s, f/6.4, ISO 500
Single acacia against sunset
Classic thorn tree at sunset. acacia tree 23mm, 1/500s, f/8, ISO 200